On Friday night Sven and I were lucky enough to go to Delicious by DS5 – a pop-up restaurant hosted by Citroen for their new car, the DS5. The five-course tasting menu was created by 2011 Masterchef winner, Tim Anderson, and was inspired by the five senses. According to Tim, “this project really allowed me to stretch my creativity and try some new gastronomic approaches… we’re creating a dining experience that will surprise and delight on a multi-sensory level.” I was really excited to be invited, and the event didn’t disappoint at all. When we arrived, we were impressed by the venue, Hoxton Art Gallery, which had been redressed as a very swanky restaurant, complete with Eames chairs and trendy exposed filament light bulbs. After a couple of glasses of prosecco we were all (around 50 guests) seated at once. And before too long the food started rolling out.
Textures of Duck: Crispy skin, liver parfait, and tea-rubbed jerky. I loved the crispy skin (correct me if I’m wrong, but crisped skin is always the best bit of any animal be it chicken, pig, or in this case, duck). The jerky I could take or leave to be honest, but that little ball of liver parfait… oh my. So. Good.
Visions of Beetroot: Various beetroots, goat cheese & wasabi cream, citrus vinaigrette. This was a real delight, the beetroots were all beautifully cooked and went so well with the parcel of goat’s cheese. My only criticism would be that the wasabi wasn’t strong enough for me, but I appreciate wasabi isn’t for everyone.
Flavours of Beef: Aged fillet of beef, mushroom and blue cheese potato puree, romanesco with cashew butter, prune sauce. This was the dish of the day for me. I’m sorry, I know it’s obvious, but the beef had been cooked sous vide to perfection and the mushroom and blue cheese potato puree was amazing. I don’t recall there being any romanesco, but everything else was spot-on.
Sounds of Bacon: Pork rind popping candy, pancetta lolly. Bacon flavoured popping candy sounds amazing. Unfortunately, for me, the idea is better than the reality. The saltiness combined with the popping wasn’t wholly pleasant, though it wasn’t exactly disgusting. The pancetta lolly, on the other hand, was everything you would want from bacon on a stick.
Aromas of Syrah: Spiced mocha ganache, grapes, blackcurrant, tobacco (awful picture, soz). This course had all the drama you would expect from a meal billed as “multi-sensory”. It began with a palate cleanser (to get rid of the saltiness of the previous course) of lemon meringue which had been dropped in liquid nitrogen. As you ate it, fogs of vapour (what is the opposite of steam called?) shot from your mouth and nose. Very strange. Next came the dessert proper. As you took the lid off, tobacco-scented smoke poured out, which went beautifully with the ganache and fruity jellies enclosed in the jar.
All in all I thought the menu was fantastic, and it really did surprise and delight us. And more importantly for a restaurant boldly called delicious, it actually lived up to its name.